Perfect Easy Tube Bead

When I began lampworking  I  wanted to do everything, of course!  So, I set about perfecting the round bead first and when I got that down I felt it was time for everything else!

I got the bicone down and worked on color combos that were attractive and felt I was making progress. But when I got  to the tube bead frustrtion set in because I never could keep

both ends warm at the same  time and the little foot at the opposite end of the mandrel always cracked because it got too cool.  Needless to  say I didn't make many tube beads

but I  watched other's that they made and drooled. Every tutorial I read said to make two perfect footprints at opposite ends of the mandrel to start and then fill in the middle. This last

year I was working at the torch and it was like a lightbulb went off in my head - why make a foot at  both ends first and have to keep moving the mandrel back and forth to keep the

other end warm ? Why not make  one foot first and work from there and finish the other end last? That way you have more heat retention at the end where you are working and

not a lone end three or four inches away from the flame.   For the first time I have been able to make super even circumference tube beads and I LOVE it!  The only tool you need is a

marver. I love my torch marver because it's so close to the flame.

So this is what I came up with:

Make your first foot  on  the mandrel  the size  that you want your tube bead to end up being in circumference.  If your first foot is too small add to it and melt it in to make your perfect

foot. Let it cool until there is no glow.   This part should never be molten again. Then lay down your second wrap trying to have it the same size as your first - better too big than too

small, though.  Melt a tiny bit of the  side of your first foot together with the second round to get rid of the line between wraps of glass.  If the first foot gets too  hot let it cool  a few

seconds before then next step.  While the second wrap of glass  is still hot roll it on your marver using the cooled first foot as your guide to control the size of the molten glass. Lay

 your third wrap and do the same  being sure to have all wraps rolled on the marver  using the first few feet as your guides.  After each new wrap of glass has been rolled on the

marver move back to the beginning wrap and reheat a bit after each new addition but not to molten. You don't want the first wrap to ever get molten again. Continue until your bead is

two wraps from  the length you want it to be.   Now lay the last foot  about 4mm away  from the end of the bead so there is a space between the last foot and the bead.

Try to make it as perfect in shape and size as the first one. Using the same rod of glass for the whole bead naturally helps  with making the last wrap the same size as the first. Let it

cool  til it's not molten while you go back to the beginning part of the bead to warm it again.  Move back to the end of the bead and fill in the part between the bead and the last foot.

Be sure not to use too much glass here. You want to add just enough to fill in the spot between the bead and the end.  Roll it on your marver to shape and you're done!  Move back to

the beginning and warm the beginning of the bead again. Now you can decorate as you like being sure to always move

your bead back and forth in the flame to keep both ends  of the bead  warm as you work.

Here are examples of tube beads I have made using this technique.

3&1/2 inches

3&1/2 inches

3 inches

4 inches

3 inches

2&1/2 inches

2&1/2 inches